Skincare Glossary

A brightening ingredient derived from bearberry plants. It works by blocking the enzyme (tyrosinase) that produces melanin. Generally well-tolerated and safe for most skin tones.

A substance that neutralises free radicals — unstable molecules that can trigger inflammation and melanin production. Vitamin C, vitamin E, and glutathione are common examples used in hyperpigmentation care.

Pigment that has dropped into the deeper layer of skin (the dermis). This is harder to treat than surface-level pigmentation because topical ingredients struggle to reach that depth. Common in melasma and some forms of PIH.

Pigment sitting in the upper layer of skin (the epidermis). This type of hyperpigmentation tends to respond better to topical treatments and fades faster than dermal pigmentation.

A classification system that groups skin into six types (I–VI) based on how it responds to UV exposure. Higher Fitzpatrick types (IV–VI) have more active melanocytes and a higher risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Unstable molecules produced by UV exposure, pollution, and inflammation. They damage skin cells and can trigger excess melanin production, which is why antioxidants are relevant in a pigmentation-management routine.

A broad term for any area of skin that's darker than the surrounding skin. It happens when melanocytes produce excess melanin in response to triggers like UV exposure, inflammation, hormonal changes, or heat.

A brightening ingredient derived from fungi. Like alpha arbutin, it works by inhibiting tyrosinase. It's effective but can cause irritation in sensitive skin, so concentration and formulation matter.

The pigment that gives skin, hair, and eyes their colour. It's produced by melanocytes as a protective response to UV radiation and other triggers. Hyperpigmentation is the result of too much melanin being produced in one area.

The cell responsible for producing melanin. Everyone has roughly the same number of melanocytes — the difference between skin tones is how active those melanocytes are and how much melanin they produce.

A type of hyperpigmentation that appears as symmetrical, often patchy dark areas — usually on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, or chin. It's driven by hormones, UV exposure, and heat, and tends to be chronic and relapse-prone.

A versatile skincare ingredient that reduces pigmentation by blocking the transfer of melanin from melanocytes to surrounding skin cells. It also supports barrier repair and reduces inflammation, making it useful across multiple pigmentation pathways.

Dark marks left behind after skin inflammation — from acne, a cut, a burn, or an irritating product. The inflammation triggers melanocytes to overproduce melanin. PIH is flat (not raised) and fades over time, but can take months without treatment.

Red or pink marks left after inflammation — often confused with PIH. PIE is caused by damaged blood vessels, not excess melanin. It's more visible on lighter skin tones and doesn't respond to the same treatments as PIH.

When pigmentation returns — sometimes darker than before — after stopping a treatment or after an aggressive procedure. This is a real risk with certain treatments, particularly for higher Fitzpatrick types.

A family of vitamin A derivatives that increase skin cell turnover, helping pigmented cells shed faster. Tretinoin (prescription) is the strongest; retinol (over-the-counter) is gentler. Both can cause irritation during the adjustment period.

Flat, dark patches caused by cumulative UV exposure over years. Unlike melasma, sun spots are caused by UV damage rather than hormones, and they don't tend to fluctuate with hormonal changes.

A measure of how well a sunscreen protects against UVB rays. SPF 30 blocks about 97% of UVB. For hyperpigmentation, daily SPF is non-negotiable — UV exposure is the single biggest trigger for melanin production and can undo months of treatment progress.

An ingredient originally used to reduce bleeding that's become one of the most promising treatments for melasma. It works by interrupting the interaction between UV-damaged skin cells and melanocytes, reducing the signals that trigger melanin production.

The key enzyme involved in melanin production. Most brightening ingredients — including vitamin C, alpha arbutin, and kojic acid — work by inhibiting tyrosinase to slow down melanin synthesis.

The portion of sunlight that triggers melanin production. UVB causes sunburn; UVA penetrates deeper and drives long-term pigmentation changes. Both contribute to hyperpigmentation, which is why broad-spectrum sunscreen matters.